Welcome to the weird world of bikepacking bags! These pouches and packs might look odd at first glance, but together they form a rugged packing system that won’t rattle, break, or weigh you down (too much) on the climbs.
Building a collection of bikepacking bags can seem daunting at first. I know it was for me! Fortunately you don’t have to figure it all out at once. I’ve built my bikepacking bag collection slowly over many thousands of miles, and I’m still making tweaks.
In this beginner’s guide to bikepacking bags I’ll walk you through the major types of bags and what they’re best for. I’ll also share my recommendations on where to start, what you can do without, and how to save money, all based on over 20,000 miles of bikepacking experience.
Frame Bag
If you’re just beginning your bikepacking bag search, a frame bag is a great place to start. It makes efficient use of an otherwise empty area perfectly located (low and centered) for carrying heavy things. It’s versatile and can be used alongside pretty much any other setup, including touring-style rack and panniers if you end up going that direction. It’s even useful for long day rides; mine never comes off my bike.
Why it’s great: efficient use of space, low and centered location great for carrying heavy stuff with minimal impact on bike handling
Limitations: some bikes, especially small mountain bike frames and full-suspension bikes, have limited space here
Styles: full, partial (top half or wedge)
Price range: $40 – $250+
What typically goes in it: heavy things like water bladder, tools, food
Decisions to make: stock or custom fit, full triangle bag or partial with room for water bottles
Money-saving tip: A frame bag is hard to DIY without sewing skills, but you don’t necessarily need to spring for an expensive custom-fit bag. Check the measurements of stock bags to see if they’ll fit your frame.
Frame bag examples:
- Budget: Moosetreks Mountain Frame Bag
- Midrange: Salsa EXP Series Frame Pack
- Fancy: Rogue Panda Custom Frame Bag
Handlebar Bag
A handlebar harness / bag is the next investment I suggest for new bikepackers. The right system can handle a wide range of capacity and pair with any back-of-bike setup (seatbag, panniers, etc), so it’s a really flexible piece of gear.
For maximum flexibility I recommend a separate harness and dry bag so you can swap in different size bags for different trips, or even hold an un-bagged item like a folding sleeping pad. I’m also a big fan of add-on front pouches for easy access to small items (sunscreen, snacks, etc) during the day.
Why it’s great: lots of space for light bulky items
Limitations: drop handlebars limit width (most bags can be rolled up to fit), suspension forks can limit bag diameter on small 29er bikes, packing too heavy makes technical riding hard
Styles: integrated bag plus harness, separate harness and dry bag, top-loader, add-on front pouch
Price range: $50 – $250+
What typically goes in it: light bulky items like sleeping bag and pad, warm clothing, tent
Decisions to make: harness plus separate dry bag or integrated all-in-one, roll closures on both sides (easy access with flat bars) or just one side, bag capacity, lightweight or burly, optional front pouch for small items
Money-saving tip: For short rides on smooth terrain you can simply strap a dry bag or tent to your handlebars using rubber Voile straps.
Handlebar bag / harness examples:
- Budget: RockBros Handlebar Bag (integrated style), or just a dry bag and two straps
- Midrange: Revelate Designs Handlebar Harness (harness style)
- Fancy: Rockgeist BarJam (harness style)
Seat Bag
A seat bag / saddle bag might be the most iconic and unique of all bikepacking bags. It’s also one of the trickiest to get right, in my experience. It’s important to choose the right size for your gear and bike, and to make sure it’s packed tightly and mounted properly to reduce bouncing, swaying, and drooping.
Seat bag capacity varies from ultralight 6 liter packs to burly 14 liter cargo haulers. Smaller packs are easier to deal with, especially on rough terrain, but are too small for longer or more involved trips. Seat bags can be notoriously hard to pack droop-free, so premium models often come with a stiff spine and no-slip buckles. If you get into bikepacking you might end up buying more than one seat bag for different types of trips.
Why it’s great: light and aerodynamic rear storage
Limitations: small 29ers, dropper seat posts, and full-suspension bikes have limited clearance above rear tire
Styles: integrated, harness plus removable dry bag, dropper post optimized
Price range: $40 – $200+
What typically goes in it: clothes, food, electronics, pretty much anything that doesn’t fit elsewhere
Decisions to make: bag capacity, dropper seat post compatibility, removable dry bag or all-in-one
Money-saving tip: You can make your own small “seat bag” by clipping a dry bag (5 to 8 liters works best) around your seat post and running a strap beneath it and up through your saddle rails.
Seat bag examples:
- Budget: Rhinowalk Saddle Bag, or just a dry bag and strap
- Midrange: REI Co-op Link Seat Pack
- Fancy: Revelate Designs Spinelock 16L
Top Tube Bag
Moving into smaller “accessory bags,” a top tube bag offers on-the-go access to small items we need during the day. It’s also a great place to stash a water bottle. They’re great for day rides too, so you’ll get your money’s worth from this bikepacking bag even when not bikepacking.
Top tube bags seem simple but there are choices to be made in terms of size and attachment style. Two main types: front-mounted bags that sit against the stem (“gas tanks”) and rear-mounted bags that nestle against the seat post (“jerry cans”). Run either, both, or even the rare full-length top tube bag if you have the standover clearance.
Why it’s great: easy access to small items while riding, useful for day rides too
Limitations: larger bags can be wobbly, some strap configurations might conflict with frame bags, shorter riders can have standover clearance issues with larger bags
Styles: front (gas tank), rear (jerry can), full length
Price range: $20 – $70
What typically goes in it: snacks, water bottle, sunglasses, sunscreen, phone, small electronics, wallet
Decisions to make: bag capacity; front, rear, or both; bolt on (if your bike has top tube eyelets) or straps
Money-saving tips: In my experience many cheap top tube bags work nearly as well as expensive ones.
Top tube bag examples:
- Budget: RockBros Top Tube Bag
- Midrange: Revelate Designs Mag-Tank
- Fancy: Rogue Panda Alamo
Feed Bag
Feed bags, also called stem bags, are another handy bikepacking accessory bag for small items. They’re especially great for holding snacks, hence the name, but can also hold water bottles or any other small items. They nestle into the corner between stem and handlebars, usually have small outer pockets, and close with a drawstring cinch cord. You’ll often see them in pairs.
Be on the lookout for a flexible and strong attachment system, especially if you plan to ride rough terrain. Look for straps that can be adjusted or moved for maximum chance of a good fit on any bike. Feed bags built for mountain biking usually have a fork crown strap to keep them from bouncing.
Why it’s great: versatile easy-access storage for water bottles or small items
Limitations: too many straps can clutter cockpit, large bags can graze knees for some riders
Styles: fairly standardized but differences in shape make some ideal for water bottles while others are ideal for small items
Price range: $20 – $60
What typically goes in it: snacks, water bottle, sunglasses, phone, other small things
Decisions to make: one side or both (I recommend both!)
Money-saving tips: Stem bags aren’t that expensive, but you can also use a rock climbing chalk bag if you happen to have one sitting around. This may not be stable and durable enough for rough riding, but it’s great for getting started on smoother terrain.
Feed bag examples:
- Budget: Moosetreks Stem Bag
- Midrange: Blackburn Outpost Carryall
- Fancy: Revelate Designs Mountain Feedbag
Cargo Cage + Fork Bag
Though fork bags in cargo cages technically defy the rule that “bikepacking bags use soft attachment systems,” they’re such a core part of many bikepacking setups that I can’t leave them out. I use fork bags all the time when I need to add a little more gear or water capacity to my setup.
A cargo cage is like an oversized bottle holder that can hold large bottles and also dry bags, usually between 2 and 5 liters. This system is nicely modular so you can swap out the bags or bottles for different trips, loading up heavier for a long tour and running lighter when it’s feasible. Bags can range from a simple dry bag to a purpose-built bikepacking bag with structured shape and mounting straps or bolts. The same setup can also be mounted beneath your downtube if you have space.
Whatever else you do, strap your dry bags to your cargo cages with two rubber Voile straps. Go long, like 25″, for the most versatility — you can always tuck away the extra tails.
Why it’s great: low position on bike is good for handling, versatile and affordable way to add more capacity
Limitations: harder to mount on forks without eyelets (though still possible), too much weight impacts bike handling
Styles: simple dry bag, specialized bags with webbing loops
Price range: $20 – $60 (plus $30 – $50 for cage)
What typically goes in it: water, clothes, food, stove and fuel, sleeping pad, pretty much anything
Decisions to make: which cage, how to mount cage if no eyelets, capacity of bags
Money-saving tips: In some cases you might not even need a dry bag. If your gear already comes in a stuff sack, like a sleeping pad or tent, simply strap it to a cargo cage (but watch out for abrasion when laying your bike on the ground).
Fork bag examples:
- Budget: RockBros Dry Bag (2L or 5L)
- Midrange: Sea to Summit Big River Dry Bag
- Fancy: Swift Industries Gemini Cargo Pack
Panniers, Bikepacking-Style
When bikepacking bags first exploded in popularity, they were seen as an alternative to traditional touring panniers. But then people started realizing it was hard to fit everything into a seat bag, and bikepacking panniers made a comeback.
A modern bikepacking-focused pannier is a bit smaller and lighter, uses a rugged rack attachment system made from soft (rattle-proof and break-proof) materials, and aims to be low-profile so it’s not in the way during hike-a-bike. Bikepacking racks should be correspondingly sturdy.
Why it’s great: more capacity for when you just can’t fit everything in a saddle bag
Limitations: tempting to overpack, can get in the way during hike-a-bike, often harder to remove from rack than regular panniers
Styles: micro, mini, full size
Price range: $70 – $250
What typically goes in it: anything and everything
Decisions to make: which rack, pannier capacity, mounting style, rack compatibility
Money-saving tips: Panniers are one of the more expensive bikepacking bags. If you’re on a budget and need more capacity than soft bags and cargo cages can provide, look into creative ways to strap dry bags to the top and sides of a rear rack.
Bikepacking pannier examples:
- Midrange: REI Co-op Link Panniers
- Fancy: OMM Micro Panniers
More Bikepacking Bag Tips
As you can see, choosing bikepacking bags can be a bit of a puzzle but it’s also pretty darn fun. Here are a few more tips to help you navigate the process.
What’s your preferred riding style and terrain? A singletrack-ready setup for technical mountain biking should be light, tight, and dialed in if you want to have fun. You can get away with a lot more weight, droop, and bounce on gravel or pavement.
Don’t be afraid to bikepack with a backpack if you’re just getting started. Whether it’s a small hydration pack or a larger hiking pack, the added space will take pressure off your bikepacking bag setup while you learn what you need.
Not sure where to start? First decide where you’ll pack two of the largest and most unwieldy items: your tent and your water. Then let everything else fall into place around those.
Not every bikepacking trip uses the same gear list and style, in fact there’s a wide range between ultralight and ultra-prepared. My ideal bikepacking bag system is modular and flexible, meaning I can swap components in and out (sometimes just changing the size of the dry bags on handlebars and fork) depending on the trip.
Shorter people have more challenges when it comes to bikepacking bags. Our frame triangles are small and we have to watch out for tire rub, especially with 29″ wheels. Smaller bikepackers should carefully consider tire clearance, aim for smaller bag capacity when needed, and consider adding a small backpack to their setup.
Bikepacking bags span a very wide price range, and it can be hard to know where you’ll find the most value. Should you start with something cheap and then upgrade later once you’ve learned what you like? Or invest in higher quality upfront and hopefully not have to buy again? Personally I stuck with cheaper bags until I gained more experience, and I’m glad I did. Two bikes later and I’ve completely changed my riding and gear style, and have much more confidence in my bag choices.
For quality gear at lower prices, I highly recommend buying used bikepacking gear. In the same vein, sell your gear if you decide to upgrade or go a different direction. There’s always another eager bikepacker out there waiting to snap it up.
About the Author
Alissa created the website BikepackingForAll.com to offer practical, affordable, inclusive knowledge and inspiration to anyone and everyone intrigued by bikepacking. Her 20,000 miles of experience on six continents – over half of that solo – stoked a passion she can’t resist sharing with others. She wants you to join the bikepacking fun! Read more here.